How to Fix a Leaking Tap

A dripping tap is one of the most common household plumbing problems — and one of the most frequently ignored. It seems harmless enough, but a single tap dripping once per second wastes more than 3,000 gallons of water per year. Beyond the water bill impact, a persistent drip can accelerate corrosion inside the faucet body and gradually damage the surrounding sink or countertop. The good news is that fixing a leaking tap is one of the few plumbing repairs most homeowners can tackle themselves — if they know what type of tap they have and follow the right steps.

Why You Should Fix a Leaking Tap Quickly

Before diving into the fix, it's worth understanding why this isn't a problem to put off. Beyond wasted water and higher utility bills, an untreated drip can silently worsen over time. Rubber washers and O-rings deteriorate faster once they've started leaking, and water pooling around the base of a tap can seep into cabinetry and cause wood rot or mold growth — neither of which is cheap to remediate. Catching a leak early almost always means a simpler, cheaper repair.

Most leaking tap repairs cost just a few dollars in parts if handled promptly. Wait too long and you may need to replace the entire faucet assembly — or discover water damage that requires professional intervention.

Tools and Materials You'll Need

For most leaking tap repairs, you'll want to have the following on hand before you start:

• Adjustable wrench or pliers (with a cloth to protect chrome finishes)
• Flathead and Phillips screwdrivers
• Allen key set (for set screws on modern faucets)
• Replacement washers, O-rings, or cartridge (matched to your tap model)
• Plumber's grease (silicone-based)
• Penetrating oil (for stubborn or corroded parts)
• A small container or towel to catch residual water

A good adjustable wrench is the single most-used tool in any tap repair — see our recommended pipe wrenches here if you need to add one to your toolkit before you start.

The single most important thing you can do before buying replacement parts is to identify your tap model. Take a photo of the make and model information (usually stamped on the tap body or printed on the original packaging) and bring it to a hardware store — or search online for your faucet's parts list. Buying the correct washer or cartridge upfront saves a second trip and a lot of frustration.

Step 1: Turn Off the Water Supply

This is non-negotiable. Before you loosen a single part, locate the isolation valves under the sink — typically small oval-handled valves on the hot and cold supply lines. Turn them clockwise until they stop. If your sink doesn't have isolation valves, you'll need to shut off the main water supply to your home, usually found in the utility room, basement, or outside near the meter.

Once the supply is shut off, open the tap fully to release any pressure and drain the remaining water from the pipes. Place a towel or container under the work area to catch any drips.

Step 2: Identify Your Tap Type

Different faucet designs fail in different ways, and each has its own repair process. The three most common tap types you'll encounter in US homes are:

• Compression taps: The traditional style with separate hot and cold handles that you physically press down to stop the water. These have a rubber washer that compresses against a seat — the washer wears out over time and causes dripping.
• Ceramic disc taps: A more modern design with a single lever or dual levers that rotate horizontally. Inside is a ceramic disc cartridge that rarely wears out but can crack or be damaged by grit in the water supply.
• Cartridge taps: Very common in modern single-handle mixer faucets. The cartridge controls both temperature and flow; when it fails, the entire cartridge is usually replaced rather than repaired.

How to Fix a Compression Tap

Compression taps are the most common type found in older homes, and they're typically the easiest to fix. The culprit is almost always a worn rubber washer or O-ring.

Start by removing the decorative cap on top of the handle (pry it gently with a flathead screwdriver) to expose the handle screw. Remove the screw and pull the handle straight off. You'll see a packing nut — unscrew it counterclockwise with your wrench to reveal the stem. At the bottom of the stem you'll find the rubber washer, held in place by a brass screw. Remove the old washer, take it to a hardware store to find an exact match, and press the new one firmly into place. While you have the faucet apart, inspect the O-ring around the stem body — if it looks cracked or flattened, replace that too. Reassemble in reverse order, restore the water supply, and test.

How to Fix a Ceramic Disc Tap

Ceramic disc faucets are built to last decades, but they can develop problems if the discs become scratched or if mineral deposits accumulate on the seating surfaces. The repair usually involves removing, cleaning, or replacing the ceramic cartridge.

Remove the handle by locating and unscrewing the set screw (usually under a decorative cap or on the side of the handle). Lift the handle to expose the cartridge housing, then unscrew it and carefully lift the cartridge out. Inspect both ceramic discs for cracks or chips — even hairline fractures will cause leaking. Clean any visible mineral deposits with white vinegar and a soft cloth, then dry thoroughly. If the discs are cracked, replace the entire cartridge with an exact-match part. Apply a thin coating of plumber's grease before reassembly. Turn the water back on slowly at first to allow water back into the ceramic — opening the supply too quickly can crack new ceramic discs.

How to Fix a Cartridge Tap

Single-handle cartridge faucets are the most common design in modern US bathrooms and kitchens. When they drip, the entire cartridge is typically swapped out — the internals are precision-engineered and not worth attempting to repair component by component.

Remove the handle by locating the set screw (commonly under a decorative button on the front or top of the handle). With the handle off, you'll see the cartridge secured by a retaining clip or nut — remove it carefully and note the orientation of the cartridge before pulling it straight out. Take the old cartridge to a plumbing supply store or hardware store to find the correct replacement for your faucet model. Slide the new cartridge in with the same orientation as the old one (incorrect orientation will cause hot and cold to be reversed), secure the retaining clip, and reassemble the handle. Test for both flow and temperature before considering the job done.

Fixing a Leak at the Base of the Tap

If water is pooling around the base of the tap rather than dripping from the spout, the problem is usually a worn O-ring on the tap body rather than an internal washer or cartridge. This is common in single-handle kitchen faucets where the spout rotates. The fix involves removing the spout from the tap body, locating the O-rings on the body (there are usually two, an upper and a lower), and replacing them with identically sized new ones. Coat the new O-rings lightly in plumber's grease before fitting to make them easier to seat correctly and extend their working life.

When to Call a Licensed Plumber

DIY tap repairs are well within reach for most homeowners, but there are situations where it's smarter — and safer — to hand the job to a professional. Call a licensed plumber if:

• You've replaced the washer or cartridge and the tap is still leaking
• The tap body itself is visibly cracked or the valve seat is damaged or pitted
• You can't locate or shut off the isolation valves, or the main shut-off is faulty
• The leak is coming from the pipe fittings under the sink, not the tap itself
• The faucet is very old, severely corroded, or has non-standard parts that are hard to source
• Water pressure seems unusually high or low — this may indicate a wider system issue

Attempting repairs beyond your skill level or tools can turn a $15 washer job into a flooded cabinet or a damaged valve that requires a complete faucet replacement. When in doubt, the cost of a plumber's service call is almost always less than the cost of water damage remediation.